Try and find someone on "ausmini" who may be able to send you copies of the Graham Russel articles from the (now defunct) Aus Mini Magazine on how to build a performance small bore.

 

A lot of the Calver stuff was actually developed by Graham.  The "RE" in the camshafts mentioned by jeg above stands for "Russel Engineering" 

 

Cheers, Ian

Bastard setups usually come down to how much fabrication you’re willing to do. Mixing and matching parts from different engines can work fine if you’ve got the right mounts, clearance, and cooling figured out, but reliability tends to be the biggest issue when everything isn’t designed to run together. A lot of guys will run into wiring or overheating problems after a few months.

If you’re just experimenting and don’t mind troubleshooting, it can be a fun project. But if you’re looking for something more practical or long-term, it’s usually smarter to either stick with a complete swap kit or go with a motor that already has aftermarket support.

I was recently reading up on compact setups and came across this breakdown on the Starlink Mini in Australia: https://theardor.com.au/starlink-mini-australia/ – not directly car-related, but it shows how much smaller tech is getting while still being powerful. Same idea applies here: the tighter and more efficient the setup, the better the long-term results.

That looks cool, i've seen a bmw 16v head on a 1275 here in dk, that seemed to be good fun, :-)

"It's all about less money more fun."

If you want to do something for less money, then sometimes you have to do it yourself.  So I am doing, or trying to do, my own development of all the pieces needed for a twincam conversion.  When the day comes that it finally runs and I get all the bugs worked out, then I hope to have some fun with it.

i'll be there to! :-)

Julian, I'm (på in Frederiksberg - check out Keith's test results (Mini Magazine sometime last year, Hyacinth is sleeping so I can't get to the articles) involving the RE13T and RE13PP camshafts. 

T'was mucho impressive and my spare 998 will be getting the RE13PP when I get some money together.  First priority is the CHGP 04-05Aug, must have the mini in the classic car park at all costs... 

I'll post the dyno data as soon as it's run in and been there. :-) 

 

I'm currently doing a fresh NOS 998 short block which I measured and cut the valve pockets and surfaced to zero deck. I lightly ported the head mostly exhaust ports and valve bowls (12G940) and installed hard exhaust seats and larger intake valves. This is going in a ladies Moke so I went with a very mild can. It will get the MSC small port alloy intake and HIF 38. The exhaust is a Cooper three into one from Maniflow. I'm rebuilding the latest rod change tranny and installing a 2.95 CWP.

From what I have heard on the Kent 276 it kills bottom end and adds little on the top end. I used one in a mid 80 mini with alloy five port head and twin 1 1/2 SUs. It runds a 3.76 CWP and the bottom end and idle leaves lots to be desired. I have much better luck across the board with the 260 cam. My current project has a MD256 cam and I feel it will perform well from the beach house to the local watering hole. I'm thinking flywheel weight does nothing to build torque.

I have a thread with pictures a couple of pages back. It's something like "Baby Cooper S anyone?" As soon as rotating assembly comes back from balance I'll have more pics posted.

Steve (CTR)

  

The flywheel in my 998 i had machined down to 6kg from 7,4kg and balanced for the equivalent of 40$ ... :-) this has to be doable in your vacinity..

 

I've got an 1100 long block, a runner removed to put a MED 1300

onto the gearbox. It's on LI, in NY.  Open to offers. 

mike

please em me directly from my profile. I'd prefer some east coaster

to collect this and NOT ship.

I have a stock flywheel... only cause I didn't want to blow a budget. As Mr Calver often says, its a matter of economy, ie how much you spend and what performance increase you get as a result. I would lighten the flywheel, but only if I were able to get one cheap... otherwise leave it.

sound interesting, i've got the block, all i need is the head, cam, pistons and all that.

Which weight fly wheel would be good in such a setup?, shouldn't be to light if you want torq.

I believe that Keith Calver wrote a few articles about small bore 998cc and 1098cc engines (available here) with various setups, the most interesting being a 1098 with a Cooper head (12G295/206) with a Swiftune SW-5 cam... a real torque monster that would rival the average 1275...

Personally mine is a 998 with the 12g295 ported head, totaly re-worked, with a +60 overbore. VP7 Cam. HIF44 Carb. It pulls well, but not til about 2500rpm... after that it goes like crazy!

If i do another, it will be the 1098 and SW5.

Hi, I'm from denmark, and i do live in denmark.

I've been roaming different forums around the internat looking for different engine setups and what experiences are with them. I can find a little bit on youtube, but never very well described or with any history attached to it.

Well, to the point.

It's all about less money more fun.

So i have just finished a little project which i am running in the keith calver way at the moment.

It's a pocketed 998ccm with a 12g940 metro head, 6kg flywheel and a kent 276 degree cam on it. it fueled by a hif38, and lets gas out through a RC40.

it seems very wiling and promesing, but i will get back to that in 500miles time ;-)

 

i'd like to hear about other funny setup and how they work, where they pull and all that. I've got a 1098ccm block which needs a drilling, so this is going to be a low rpm torqy thing, but what head would i look for, what fuelling and all that..

please post any experiences you have on putting the wrong things together ending up being right... ;-)

here's a couple of clips of the first runs

//youtu.be/gv-uXUvQosY

//youtu.be/b3A7W6oPgM4

best regards Julian